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In vitro evaluation systems for depigmentation and anti-wrinkle efficacy
안수미 ( Soo Mi Ahn )
UCI I410-ECN-0102-2009-360-008819624

The cosmetics industry grows with the advancement of the society and culture. It is one field of typical fine chemical industry where the basic science and application technique of chemistry, biology, physiology and the pharmacy are applied together. The cosmetic products must have safety, efficacy, stability and user convenience. Recently the regulation against animal experiments is claimed in Europe and many in vitro methods are used and developed. In Korea, functional cosmetic fields are growing after cosmetic law was separated from pharmaceutical affairs law at June, 2000. Sunscreen, whitening and anti-wrinkle effectsare three categories in functional cosmetic law. Recently many cosmeceutical ingredients are developed which have a more biological activity than before in these categories. In this lecture I will review the detail of assessment method for evaluation of anti-wrinkle and depigmentaion agents in vitro. Collagen and MMP-1 are well known biological targets for evaluation of anti-wrinkle ingredients. Usually human dermal fibroblast (HDF) is used for these assays. The selected ingredients are evaluated in in vivo animal or human study. Initial evaluation of depigmenting properties should be performed on purified tyrosinase and other melanogenic enzymes, thereafter employing melanocyte cultures, cytotoxicity and effects on melanin synthesis should be assayed. All these evaluation methods have limits and methods which have higher relationships with human should be developed continuously with reliable biomarkers.

[자료제공 : 네이버학술정보]
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